The clean channel has the standard high/mid/low eq control. Even at high volumes, the clean channel retains it's clarity. The amp is compact in size, but also gets loud and there is an additional speaker output if you want to drive another cabinet. It also has a switch to combine the clean and overdrive channels. The clean channel is all solid state, and the overdrive channel has a 12ax7 preamp. The included footswitch is for switching between the channels and turning on/off the reverb.
#BK BUTLER TUBE WORKS REAL TUBE PEDAL DRIVER#
The Tube Driver TD-752 is a two channel 100 watt amp with spring reverb, an effects loop and a both a line out and a second speaker output to drive an external cabinet. These amps were made in Denver, CO (USA) and designed by BK Butler (of the tube driver pedal Fame).
#BK BUTLER TUBE WORKS REAL TUBE PEDAL MANUAL#
Comes with owners manual and original footswitch. Tube Works TD-752 combo amp with 12" speaker and built in B.K. "I then designed the black Real Tube pedal in 1986 which I still think is a superior pedal in some ways to the Tube Driver (ZZ Top’s Billy Gibbons agrees) and then went on to design all my Tube Works SKUs: MosValve, Tube Works Real Tube rack products, combo amps and reverb… then the smaller 3 knob version of the Tube Driver was designed in an attempt to give an entry level price to tube lovers."Īnd yet they often go for $100 or less while Dean Markley and Maxon versions sometimes top $250. Here's what BK says about the TW version in the interview here : I'm always amused to see how cheap the Tube Works pedals sell for in comparison to all the others, including the three knob and Chandler versions (basically anything that looks like the new one). And of course everyone who had either model could easily flip it to try out the alternative. If someone were to make a layout that fit a standard Hammond case (*ahem*) these would make really nice projects in addition to the Baja and other variations on this site.
He said he's busy at the moment but has the schematic and will send it when he has time, which is very nice of him considering I internet stalked him and contacted him out of the blue. Pesocaster has confirmed that the only difference between 901 and 903 is some component values, also mentioning the use of a 12AU7 in place of the AX which I think pretty much everyone does, myself included. If you use a tube shield, it should definitely be grounded, or else it won't work well.Įxcellent! Thanks ripdivot. I found one from an old tube tape machine that fit perfectly on the tube and had a grounding wire already attached. You may also want to consider putting a little metal shield around the tube. If the two wires aren't twisted tightly together, I recommend doing that, and then making sure they're clear of any of the signal wires going to and from the board, and away from the tube if possible. As far as the humming is concerned, you may want to check how the wires coming from the transformer to the circuit board are routed - they may be in a spot where they're inducing hum into the rest of the circuit. Attach the ground wire to the chassis close to the transformer if possible. That is certainly the case inside there, so I say do it. It's a good idea to use a grounded cord whenever you have situation where the main power might accidentally short against something and cause a potential electrocution hazard. The unit I traced had a grounded power cord. I don't know what differences there may be in values, but it uses the exact same circuit board as was used in the black (and blue) Real Tube like what you have. Here is the schematic I traced of the the TubeWorks 303 Smooth.
Is replacing the cord with a grounded one a good idea for either noise or safety reasons? It's always been pretty noisy though, and the plug is the ungrounded type. Oh, also: Mine has been humming up a storm lately, probably because the tube is dying. Things seem a lot more cramped in this version than in the new run.
In any case, if there are schematics of either or both let me know, if anyone wants gut shots I'll take them and post them.
If the Tube Works is completely identical to the standard Butler circuit I'll feel a little bit foolish. If not, I'm more than happy to provide gut shots of the Real Tube so someone with actual talent can trace the circuit and make a definitive schematic. This is where you guys come in: I haven't been able to find a schematic of either Tube Works variant on the net. Maybe even try to duplicate the Real Tube circuit and see if it's any quieter than the original. I would love to try a build of the Blue Tube once I have a Baja or something under my belt (and possibly on my pedalboard). There was another variant of it called the Blue Tube which is lower gain. It's one of the five knob variants, comes in an ugly black and yellow case. In any case, I have a Tube Works Real Tube Overdrive that I absolutely love. Hi all, just registered after seeing the great work from Runoff, Home Wrecker, GGG, Tonepad, and the rest.
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